Sunday, July 02, 2006

I cheated.

A button and not a buckle

Well, I did admit to it already.

Diane mentioned something about having to do some k3tog decreases during her neckband adventures with Tempting II, and lo and behold, I found myself having to do the same thing. I only re-worked half of the neckband, which made it perfect on the front, but not so much in the back. So I will echo her recommendation for altering the neckline to decrease even more than prescribed in the pattern. I think mine would have worked out best with a k2tog k3tog decrease at every other RS neckband row. :)

Good luck everyone!


LisaBe said...

i love the button you chose--looks great with that yarn, too! very pretty!
how many rows before your band did you start decreases? just the last one? or are you talking about decreases in the band itself (which i'm having trouble picturing--which rows? wrong or right side?)?
thanks for showing us your pics and sharing your advice! i'm only a few inches in, but i'm trying to finish fast to give it as a mid-july gift! yikes!

Oblivia said...

As far as the decreases, I did the decreases in the last round of the yoke/body piece as noted in the pattern [k2tog, k1]. When I was working on the neckband, every RS ended with a [ssk] on the last stitch that attached the neckband piece to the yoke/body piece. It was only after I had completed the whole neckband that I realized that I could have decreased even more in the yoke/body piece.

Instead of frogging the whole neckband and the last round of the yoke/body, I frogged only half of the neckband to adjust. The [ssk] part of the neckband construction is where I added some decreases in order to tighten up the yoke. You can end with [k3tog] instead, which attaches 2 sts of the yoke/body to 1 st of the neckband. I ended up doing a [ssk2tog], if there is such a thing, and the result should be the same.

I'm sure that on the last round of the yoke/body, you can decrease [k2tog] all the way through, or however you want, and do the neckband as noted with the [ssk]. For me, it was a matter of when I found the "flub" and when I could adjust for it. I did not want to re-work the last row of the yoke/body, so I just included the decreases ith the neckband attachment. (I could still frog my whole neckband and try alternating the [ssk2tog]/[ssk] ending on the RS of the neckband to see the fit.)

I hope this isn't too confusing. :)

LisaBe said...

so, in other words, instead of slipping one stitch on as your ssk, you were saying you might recommend slipping two? i think that makes sense. otherwise you're essentially adding a spare row (the one coming back to the body) between each row where you've just picked up a stitch, so that way you can kind of compensate and keep the number of stitches the same. and if your row and stitch are the same *size* and your row and stitch gauge are the same, then that's exactly how many stitches you want--you'd want to adjust accordingly, it seems, if the rows are taller (as they usually are). good stuff--thanks!

Oblivia said...

I am pretty much a freestyle knitter and I was just thinking about my [ssk2tog] abbreviation and what I actually did. It was more like [sl1, k2tog, psso] which is still essentially a 2 st decrease every time. I also decided to illustrate the [k3tog] neckline in case anyone was interested (or confused). :)